Order of importance.....
I base everything off of order of importance when it comes to application. I address the biggest issue or most important issue first and proceed from there.
For this particular situation I had 3 issues to address
1️⃣ level 4 roots with a small % of grey
2️⃣ brassy ends
3️⃣ minor damage in the transition area (zone 🏼or mid-shaft). How would you address this situation?
Lightener was not an option today.
Using all color I transition my client into a brighter blended look using all color. Here’s the kicker . In order to do it I had to bend a few rules.
Because the ends were brassy I applied a hi-lift color with 15 volume to the ends first
I felt this was the most important issue so I addressed it first.
But why hi-Lift color?
Because lightener was not an option today I opted to utilize a hi-lift in order to lift 1/2 to 1 level lighter with control. I utilized the high ph (alkalinity) in the hi-lift to slightly lighten and tone shift the ends. This will not work if your dealing with previously colored hair (this was previously lightened with bleach and that’s why I was able to do this)
I did the roots next...
Timing....because I did not rinse between applications I factored in how much time I needed for each zone in order to achieve the final results. This client had a small % of grey so I knew I would need to process at least 25 minutes.
I finished with zone 2 (the transition area).....
Well I think it should be obvious but ok 🏼. Well it was the only thing left to address duh 🙄 🤣. No seriously though the transition should create the blend from dark into light. If processed 1st it may have gotten darker than I wanted based on the formula used. If I stated there 2nd my base may have not had enough time to process or my ends might not have fully developed 🤷🏻♀️🤷🏻♀️ who knows. This was all based on what I felt was order of important. This same rule applies for color corrections as well. Start with the biggest issue first and everything else will be easier.
Remember the order of importance. - 49 minutes ago